Roll with the Season

Every summer I commit to a lobster roll or two. Over the years I have lived in New England I have come to learn what I like and don’t like when it comes to this seasonal splurge.

Homarus Americanus, the American lobster used in New England’s lobster rolls became popular in the 19th century when recipes for lobster including lobster salad appeared in cookbooks. By the end of the century it was a portable picnic sandwich.

Today’s lobster rolls are made from lobster meat served on a buttered hot dog bun. They seem to get along everywhere. Lobster rolls have made their way onto food trucks, seafood shacks, chain restaurants as well as high end eating establishments. You will find upscale lobster rolls made with lemon zest and capers or a skimpy one made without the care lobster deserves as bits of lobster shell can be left from the labor intensive cleaning of the lobster that also requires some skill.

What I like: Tradition. You may be given a choice between hot lobster poached in butter or cold with little coating of mayonnaise. Being from New England, I can get a steamed lobster with hot butter any time. I choose cold with mayonnaise.

What I don’t like: Anything else added to my lobster roll. I’ve had lobster rolls with chives, lemon zest, capers, some of them have even been my own creation inspired by a restaurant experience.

The roll we compare all others to can be found at The Lobster Tail, 1081 Osgood Street in North Andover. The lobster meat is tender and sweet and lightly coated in mayonnaise. Served in a buttered roll. They have become a yearly tradition and early evening beach picnic staple. Probably not that different from the picnics in the 19th century except ours comes by way of a camper van.


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